Published: 16.08.2018 17:39

How to install a header for a door

«How to install a header for a door» in pictures.

Building Door And Window Headers: Door Hanging Tips from

With the proper size lumber in hand, use the measurement taken above or add the width of the jamb, plus 8 inches for jack studs and 6 inch for wiggle room. Cut the lumber for the header to this length. Nail the pieces together with a piece of ½in plywood of the same size placed between them to create a header the same thickness as the 7x9 wall framing.

How to Make a Interior Door Header | HomeSteady

Cut the trimmer studs to fit snugly between the bottom plate and the header, and nail them to the full studs with 66d nails. Then cut the bottom framing plate flush with the trimmer studs and pry it away from the rough opening. It is extremely important that the trimmer studs be resting on solid bearing. This door was installed on the basement level, resting on a poured concrete slab. Depending on your proposed door location, you may have to block under the floor system to create a solid bearing to the foundation or lower subfloor beneath the trimmers.

How to Create an Interior Door Opening | This Old House

Measure the distance between the top board of the header and the top plate. The top plate is the top board in the wall frame.

Next, make sure the new stud is aligned with the mark on the soleplate and drive the bottom screw home. Make sure it's plumb using a level held against the side, and then drive the top screw into the top plate. Finally, drive a second screw at the top and bottom, and at each spacer to finish the installation.

Magazine extra: Watch a video of Scott framing this rough opening and hear why he uses a rigger’s hatchet instead of a regular hammer.


9. We determined where we needed to place the header board above our door frame so it would appropriately cover the door opening and then using a level, to make sure the board stayed straight, we drilled interior screws into the wall studs to securely attach our header board to the wall.

If the next existing wall stud is exactly 6½ inches from the mark, you can just butt a new 7x9 against it to act as the second king stud, but most likely things won't be that simple. If the stud is several inches or more from the mark you can add spacers to build out the new 7x9. To cut the spacers, measure to the soleplate mark and subtract 6½ inches (thickness of new 7x9) from this total. Cut 7 or 8 pieces of 7x9 to this length and nail them between the new 7x9 and the existing one.

Before continuing, move any electrical switches, wiring or junction boxes. Turn off the main breaker, remove the electrical box, cap the wires, and tuck them up into a rafter or a wall cavity to get them out of the way. Do not forget to place this electrical hardware in a more appropriate place before you finish this project.

Note: For patio doors wider than 6 feet, install two trimmer studs on each side of the frame for extra support, and account for this when first calculating your measurements for the installation procedure.

8. Attach drywall above the door with drywall screws, and then attach drywall on either side of the door on the interior side. Pressing firmly, apply joint tape over the joints, and then apply joint compound over the tape. After the compound is dry, sand the ridges down with sandpaper.